Wednesday, 12 October 2011

Serge Lutens Rose de Nuit

I think folks might be getting a little tired of my Serge Lutens week. I'm almost finished, I promise. Rose de Nuit is the last one. 

I am a great fan of rose fragrances. I've tried a good few and Rose de Nuit is one that I've wanted to sample for a long time. One of my all-time favourite rose perfumes is Une Rose by Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle. It is dark, fleshy, complex, rich, sexy and just plain brilliant. It's perhaps no surprise that Rose de Nuit ticks a lot of boxes for me too. Like Une Rose it is so much more than simply a rose fragrance. I love the start, am not so sure about the middle and am sucked in by the dry down. Rose de Nuit, like Une Rose, shares a warmth, complexity and sophistication, hinting at roses, but in a very roundabout way. It starts quite fresh and rosy, then quickly morphs into something altogether darker, becoming woodier, suffused with a sweetish rose note. I love this phase. 

In the heart it smells a bit more leathery, with a note slightly like varnish and lacquer. I find this phase ever so slightly synthetic. In the dry down Rose de Nuit becomes much earthier and fleshy, hinting at carnal pleasure. It is not particularly dry on my skin, which other writers have suggested and at this point it reminds me most of Une Rose, when it reveals a fleshy, animalic and almost wine-like note. It is a stunning perfume.

Like Santal de Mysore, which I wrote about a few days ago, it is one of those perfumes that elicited a 'wow' moment for me, which is a good sign. As with Santal de Mysore, I tried a wax sample of Rose de Nuit a couple of years ago and again, it bears very little resemblance to the actual perfume, except for the extreme dry down phase.

Although I love Rose de Nuit, I still think it comes a very close second to Une Rose, which is still my favourite rose fragrance of all!


  1. Actually, I'm enjoying the SL reviews because you're covering several that I'm not familiar with! Rose de Nuit? Never heard of it and now I'd really like to try it.

    Une Rose is the one that I always pass over when I'm sniffing around at the local Frederic Malle carrier. Lipstick Rose smelled great on my boss, but not very interesting on me. I like your description of Une Rose and promise to give it a wrist-spray next time! You never know until you try...right?

  2. Cymbaline, I'm glad you're enjoying these reviews. Next time you pass Frederic Malle, I would definitely recommend you try Une Rose. I think you will find it very different to Lipstick Rose though. I personally find Une Rose a fascinating perfume.

  3. I also enjoy your SL reviews: I'm very new to the niche world (I'm not sure if a year ago I new who SL or FM exactly were) so after I found several blogs with owners of which I have either many similarities or many dissimilarities in our tastes, on those blogs I read reviews for lines and perfumes I'm not familiar with very attentively.
    I like good rose perfumes. With Une Rose I had a bad experience: I applied to my wrist a lot of this perfume from a sample that went off. It was so unpleasant that I didn't dare to approach UR again. I will try to get over it and test the good juice eventually but now I have no point of reference. And - where I stand now - I will try probably any new [for me] perfume from SL, FM and several other brands.

  4. Undina, Une Rose is a strong perfume, so over-application could be overwhelming, I reckon. I don't know when you wore it, but I think it wears better in cooler weather. I love rose perfumes too, as long as they are not just about rose - they need a little something else too!



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