I first tried a couple of perfumes from the Atelier Cologne line about two years ago, namely Bois Blonds and Orange Sanguine. My initial impression was so-so. Nice, but a bit simple and fleeting. Since then, I gave Orange Sanguine away and put Bois Blonds to one side. Far more recently my friend Cymbaline gave me samples of Oolang Infini and Trefle Pur. I enjoyed both so much that I dug out my older sample of Bois Blonds and tried it again. These are my updated impressions of those I have tried:
Ok, this is simply my impression of what I thought of it at the time. I recall it smelling lovely and orangey in the opening and then fading quickly to leave me feeling a little disappointed, not by the smell, but the longevity. I recall the orange being blood orange, which I think is a bit sweeter and possibly more fragrant than the 'usual' orange we know so well?
As with Orange Sanguine, I recall being a little underwhelmed two years ago. It smelled good, but very soft and close to the skin. Two years later, I am detecting far more of the subtle beauties in Bois Blonds. It is woody, in an understated way, but suffused with a greenness that is more herbal and dusty/leafy (a bit like a bay wood, I would venture, in the late, dry summer). I'm tempted to say it is a little like Comme de Garcons Monocle Laurel, but actually a lot better.
A lovely tea scent with a nice citrus kick to start. It has something of the feel of Bois Blonds, being fairly subtle too, and a green tinge as well. The tea note is as good as anything I have encountered in the genre, but confess to not having tried that many tea perfumes, so I guess it is a matter of opinion.
Trefle Pur was the one that surprised me the most. It opens with a very citrus burst, quite simple and clean, then a lovely spring green freshness emerges. That is possibly the clover accord, but irrespective, it is uplifting and joyous. After that, Trefle Pur seemed to disappear from my skin, only to emerge a bit later with what to me is an earthy, dry and even smoky accord, which surprised me no end. The notes mention moss and patchouli, and this must be what I am getting. Whatever, it is a nice twist and very enjoyable. To me, Trefle Pur was the most complex of the four.
So, overall, a revisit of Bois Blonds was overdue and very rewarding. The Atelier line is growing on me. As I said earlier, the perfumes are not loud, with minimal sillage, but they have a quiet and sophisticated presence that is both uplifting and even zen-like and contemplative to me.
If you haven't tried Atelier colognes, I would highly recommend searching out a few samples.
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