Saturday SOTD - Parfums MDCI Enlevement au Serail

I've had a sample of Enlevement au Serail hanging about in my samples box for easily a couple of years now. I've worn it occasionally, but I must admit that it veers close enough to being too feminine for me to wear comfortably at work. Today seemed like a perfect opportunity to wear it. 

I haven't sampled extensively from the MDCI range (and at those prices, full bottles are unlikely, at least for me!) but I've mostly enjoyed the ones I've tried, which in addition to this one include Chypre Palatin, Invasion Barbare (amazing) and Ambre Topkapi (very so-so in my books). 

I'm not going to go into much detail here, but Enlevement au Serail reminds me of some of the Amouage perfumes from a few years ago, in particular Jubilation 25. Jubilation has more incense and ends up more chypre and quite dry, but to my nose they have a lot in common, particularly in spirit. Looking at the notes, I recognise some common accords shared with Amouage in many of their earlier fragrances, including the use of plenty of jasmine and rose, and that base of vetiver, sandalwood and patchouli. Like with Amouage, MDCI seem able to balance the florals with a much woodier and spicy base, which makes for a very even-keeled perfume, that feels even slightly retro and classic in feel.

I'm not going to say much more, other than to state that Enlevement au Serail is a very good perfume indeed, well worth seeking out a sample of. A full bottle, at around $250 for 60ml, is quite expensive, to say the least. This perfume was created by Francis Kurkdjian, and his quality and eye (or nose, I suppose) for good ingredients and class shine through.

Parfums MDCI Chypre Palatin

As usual, I am fairly late to the game, so possibly I am one of the last to try Parfums MDCI's Chypre Palatin. I am probably not one, unsophisticated philistine that I am, to appreciate or to discern the subtle differences between the myriad chypres on the market, whether they contain real oakmoss or not. Whatever, I have to say that I struggled to identify Chypre Palatin as a chypre. With notes of green clementine, hyacinth, lavender, rose, iris, jasmine, benzoin, styrax, vanilla, castoreum, costus and leather accord, I couldn't quite see the connection, and from the notes this has a far more oriental look about it.

Not long into spraying on Chypre Palatin, I immediately made a connection with Pure Distance M. I'm not saying they are dead ringers, but they share a lot more than a passing resemblance, in my opinion. Having looked up the above notes, I had a look on the Pure Distance website, where M is described as a leather chypre with an oriental twist. Bingo! The notes for M are bergamot, lemon, rose, jasmine, cinnamon, patchouli, moss, cistus, vetiver, vanilla, leather and musk.

Interestingly, the notes the above share in common are rose, jasmine, costus, vanilla and leather. There may be more in common, but one cannot definitely rely on website note lists. My thinking is that forceful notes like leather and costus are able to bring forth the similarities to my nose.

As some of you may recall, I loved M and wrote about it a number of times. So what about Chypre Palatin? I think if I had never smelled M, I would have been blown away by Chypre Palatin. However smelling it today for the first time (in fairness, repeated wearing may reveal other facets and differences not immediately apparent) I couldn't help but feel slightly disappointed that it reminded me so much of M. That may seem illogical, but there you have it.

Having said that, one thing I do like about Chypre Palatin is it is not as strong and forceful as M, being a bit more restrained. As much as I like M, it can be a bit too much at times, a real powerhouse. Chypre Palatin is no wilting flower, mind you.

So, don't get me wrong. My initial impression of Chypre Palatin is positive, and it is a lovely perfume, but I wish it had not reminded me so much of M, but nevertheless, still recommended.

Parfums MDCI - Enlevement au Serail

Enlevement au Serail was created by Francis Kurkdjian, originally called FK3. The notes include bergamot, mandarin, ylang-ylang, jasmine sambac, tuberose, rose, wallflower, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla and vetiver. 

This is a perfume that got me thinking. It is cerebral and hard to describe. Even as I write this I can't quite get my head around it. Styled as a chypre, not my favourite genre, it starts out very feminine and immediately follows what to my nose is a classic chypre structure. The opening is very aldehydic, with florals and a delicate peachiness that recalls Mitsouko. It's not as dark, and a bit sweeter, lacking that 'biscuit' like accord I find in the Guerlain. It's certainly nice, although I do find it on the more feminine side of what I prefer to wear.

As the opening fades, I was startled by a tuberose note that comes to the fore. At this stage I had no idea what the perfume notes were and I wondered if I was dreaming. It seemed a most unlikely note, in context. The heart is possibly my favourite phase. The green-tinged peachiness is joined by a tempering oakmoss note, slightly dusty, while the tuberose adds a creamy warmth that is quite compelling. At this point it departs in style from Mitsouko as the tuberose strengthens. However, the oakmoss never allows the tuberose to becoming overbearing, as it often can, and this perfume doesn't stray into excessive tropical territory. Having said that, there is quite a lush feel to Enlevement au Serail and despite quite liking aspects of it, it is possibly too feminine for me and I feel a bit uncomfortable wearing it. 

It's quite a weird perfume. I wasn't expecting to find tuberose lurking in what starts as old-school chypre. It is, as I stated earlier, quite cerebral and sophisticated and very challenging. I like it and dislike it at the same time, if that can make any sense at all. On the right skin and on the right person, I can see Enlevement au Serail just singing, and it is testament to Kurkdjian's brilliance that he can create a perfume that is at once both very old-school in feel, yet also bang up-to-date, with a sly little twist in the middle. Overall, I admire the perfume, but couldn't see myself wearing this, but if you are a fan of chypres and looking for something a little different, do sample it.

Image credit - luckscent.com