Tuesday, 15 May 2012

Serge Lutens Arabie

Could this be one of the good Uncle's most polarising fragrances (let's not even talk about Miel de Bois)? Arabie was the first Lutens perfume I ever tried, way back in the 'misty times' of 2007. It set the tone for what I initially thought applied to all the Lutens perfumes - that oft-talked about syrupy, stewed fruit accord. Arabie has it in spades, but over time, as I've got to know and love the Lutens line, I realise that in actual fact not that many Lutens really have that accord. At least, I don't think so.

To this day, I still don't know if I like Arabie. It is strong, forceful, long-lasting and very distinctive. I get the feeling that it is likely to wear someone rather than the other way round. Yet, in a strange way, I do like it. I think once the initial stewed fruit and spicy blast calms (which admittedly is a while) it becomes a very complex and nuanced perfume. Through all the spice and fruit is essentially what I perceive as a fruity leather fragrance, although this accord is not mentioned and I could be wrong. I suppose the intense spiciness of the fragrance just makes me think of leather. I think for most people, this could be a love-it-or-hate-it fragrance.

Like some of Lutens intense and challenging perfumes, I don't think I could wear Arabie frequently, but I do like trying it on occasion. One thing is for sure - it takes no prisoners.


4 comments:

  1. It's interesting to me that you reviewed Arabie because I have just been wearing my old Jean Patou re-issues from the 80's and it struck me all at once, that Normandie was quite like Arabie. You wouldn't think that a perfume made in 1935 would be that edgy would you? And yet it was all there, the autumnal fruitiness, the dry spice,and the dark amber dry down. Not a doppelganger but certainly a long lost uncle.

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  2. Blacknall, that is very interesting. I haven't tried the Jean Patou perfume you refer to. In fact, is it even easy to find them?

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  3. They turn up from time to time on Ebay but the decanting businesses are the best way to sample them. I'm perfectly happy to share what I have, and who knows, perhaps the new owners of Patou will bring back some of the old perfumes?

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  4. Thanks Blacknall, perhaps they will, but I wonder how changed they would be?

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