Thursday 15 April 2010

Prada Infusion de Tubereuse and Infusion de Vetiver
There was quite a lot of excitement when news of these releases was received in the blog community. I know there are quite a few Prada fans out there, but I must be honest and say that I have never been blown away by Prada. Of the line, I think the feminine Infusion d'Iris was best done and the masculine version inferior. Having said that, there is something in the Infusion line overall that just doesn't agree with my nose. I can't quite pin it down, but I think it might be that house note of soapy amber and benzoin - its distinctive and somewhat cloying to me and it puts me off. When Prada released Infusion de Fleur D'oranger it didn't improve either, in my opinion.

Anyway, so we come to the two latest releases in the line. Due to my history with Prada, I wasn't expecting much. The reviews I had read mostly suggested that these were ok, but not particularly great. In particular, sillage and longevity appear to be a problem. I tried Tubereuse first and I was pleasantly surprised actually. Look, I admit that if you are familiar with Tuberose as a note and have experienced Fracas, Tubereuse Criminelle or Carnal Flower then you might wonder why this is even called Tubereuse. It is subtle and diffusive and in keeping with the Prada ethos. However, if you are new to tuberose, or find the divas too loud, shrieky and in-your-face, then this might appeal. Most reviewers have said that they can't smell tuberose, but I noticed it straight up. Its true that it is quite subtle, but it is there. I think if you are sensitive to the forcefulness of tuberose, then you might notice it more, and being a male and a bit nervous of white florals, i picked it up quickly and was relieved that it did not shout out. I think it is a well done fragrance and most pleasing is that the dry down does not tread the usual ambery/benzoin path for me, or at least, not obviosly so.

Vetiver opens up with a gin-like accord, all astringent, boozy green and herby, with a touch of lemon. I can see that opening really working on a hot, humid summer's day. However, soon after I get that dreaded soapy, amber accord seeping through and I lose interest. The vetiver does come through, more in the grassy, fresh style of say Lubin Vetiver or Mugler Cologne, rather than rooty/earthy. I must admit that it is an improvement on Fleur D'oranger and the originals and stays a bit fresher and less soapy-amber.

Overall, I quite like these two. They aren't particularly innovative or unique, and if you like your tuberose and vetiver more forceful and full of character, then you won't find that here. However you could do a lot worse than try these two and I would certainly recommend at least sampling them.

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